(Written for The Mancunion. Click here to view it).
Once upon a time a suit was nothing more than a practical outfit we all had to own. It would make a dismally infrequent appearance for a distant family wedding, another christening or a friend’s unnecessarily themed ‘black-tie’ party at the local village hall. While the girls worried about where to buy their new dress, we worried about if the dry-cleaning had properly removed the effluvium of vomit from last years Student Ball.
However, with Hollywood’s struggle for original insults to throw at it’s female red carpet victims, the world’s fashionable eyes are turning to their male companions. This means we men are now getting more options than a simple black tux. Here are my suggestions for something a little riskier:
1) Mix it up. By abandoning the matching suit mentality you can discover a wealth of fun options. For example, a common favourite is a velvet blazer. Although they are available in a multitude of colours, I recommend staying dark with a british racing green, burnt maroon or midnight purple. For a traditional smoking jacket choose a double breasted option with simple buttons; adopting a rope fastening will take you into fancy-dress territory.
2) Similarly, maintaining a black jacket can allow for a variation is choice of trouser. Tartan is a good print, but staying dark is still essential. If patterned pants seem daunting, block colour can bring a simple edge. Just avoid joining the red trouser brigade. This is Manchester, not Exeter.
3) If bold is the route you want to take, bright colours can work in some very special cases. Although within an unlikely student budget, Burberry frequently include more daring colours in their collections. However, even this price range may make you look more Ronald McDonald than Tinie Tempah.
Don’t get me wrong, a simple suit is still a strong look, and in most cases a recommendable one. However, the smaller details have seen a recent growth of importance. For example, opt for shorter dimensions in both the sleeves and trouser to bring the staple classic into a modern era. Similarly, two-buttoned suits fit better around the midriff than their three-buttoned predecessor, giving a more defined silhouette. As for the classic and simple tux, one button is already enough and it should also only ever be paired with a crisp, white dress shirt and plain bow-tie. I call it a simple tux because that is exactly how it should be; simple. If you really must add some colour then a silk scarf is acceptable. Hundreds are available from edgy, overpriced vintage stores in the Norther Quarter, but if you can get to a kilo sale you’ll find a life-time supply for less than lunch.
As we mature into modern men a strong understanding of formalwear is essential, not just what’s on trend, but what works for you personally. By the time next year’s Student Ball comes around, your options will be countless. Just try to keep it clean this time.
